MILAN – During Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, models made their way down an emergency escape staircase to the Francesca Liberatore runway, symbolically inviting the world to seek a path away from the worldwide human suffering.
While Liberatore usually approaches the runway with an artistic flair, she chose not to turn her Spring-Summer 2026 line into a traditional warm-weather story, considering the ongoing global unrest.
Instead, she conveyed her increasing concerns through both the show’s setup and its soundtrack, which featured two songs by Tears for Fears: “Everybody Wants to Rule the World” and “Mad World,” performed by Italian singer Elisa.
Precise tailoring in chaotic times
She intended to add to the discourse by creating a collection defined by a distinctive fashion language, resulting in notably youthful and wearable outfits.
“Those who live in their own perfect worlds need to open their eyes. … We have to pause and notice what’s happening,” Liberatore remarked backstage.
In light of the turmoil, Liberatore executed her fashion with exacting codes. The presentation commenced with a series of tailored white jackets crafted from sumptuous, textured materials. The outfits then evolved into softer silhouettes, with bodices gently enveloping the body before cascading into long A-line skirts. The collection featured relaxed tunics over skirts, strappy sundresses with a loose, wide design, and an opulent brocade underlayer that peeked out from the hem.
The looks were finished with headphones in collaboration with Sony, connecting with a young audience.
Floral gestures
Models at the end carried black roses, which they placed at the foot of the photo podium.
Liberatore wanted the audience members to assign their own meaning. But for it, it was a combination of distress over ongoing wars and the luxury sector’s crisis as it fails to connect with the younger generation.
The floral gesture also was a tribute to the late Giorgio Armani, who put Milan on the global fashion map.
Liberatore and Armani have long anchored the last day of Milan Fashion Week. On Sunday night, a gala show honoring Armani‘s 50 years as a designer will be held at the Brera Art Gallery, just weeks after his death at the age of 91.
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