As I crouch and maneuver my way into the tunnel’s entrance, a wave of hesitation grips me before resolutely pushing deeper into the shadowy passage leading to one of Hamas’s expansive underground labyrinths. This journey isn’t for the faint-hearted or those averse to confined spaces. A few meters in, I finally manage to stand, appreciating for once my modest height of 5ft 4in. Those taller would find themselves in a perpetual stoop. Yet, even I am not spared the occasional head-bumping against the low ceiling. After years of hearing about these infamous tunnels, I find myself inside one of the world’s most chilling locales. The environment is harsh—stretching my arms is impossible, and I can hardly see beyond a few centimeters. Without my torch, I’d be colliding headfirst into the unyielding walls.

The air is dense and suffocating; within moments, my chest tightens, the heat becomes overpowering, and my voice falters as I attempt to capture the experience on video. Although I know the terrorists have vacated, my instincts scream to retreat. It’s beyond comprehension that many of the 254 hostages endured such conditions, trapped in utter darkness, with some held for nearly two years. Hamas consumed stolen aid in front of them, denying prisoners basic necessities like food, water, and sanitation. Some were confined in cages, and others suffered sexual assaults within these cramped quarters.

This very network is where Lieutenant Hadar Goldin, Israel’s longest-held captive, was concealed for over 11 years. Lt. Goldin, who was just 23 when he was killed during the 2014 Operation Protective Edge—an Israeli Defense Forces mission aimed at halting Hamas rocket attacks into Israel—became a symbol of perseverance. His death tragically occurred moments after a 72-hour ceasefire was scheduled to commence. His family, who clung to the hope of retrieving his remains, were finally able to lay him to rest last month after an intelligence breakthrough.

I am embedded with the Israeli military which is showing a small group of international journalists this labyrinth beneath Rafah, southern Gaza, for the first time. It is 7km (4.3miles) long, contains 80 hideouts, and runs beneath a dense residential district near the Philadelphi Corridor that borders Egypt. Just a stone’s throw away from this complex is a building run by UNRWA, the UN organisation supporting Palestinians which Israel accuses of employing Hamas members. Nearby are UNRWA schools and mosques.

The IDF says that among the senior Hamas commanders who used this particular tunnel route was Rafah Brigade Commander Mohammad Shabaneh. Nearby, terrorists are still operating in tunnels just like this. The IDF has been accused by Hamas of breaching the ceasefire hundreds of times, but Israel disputes the figure and in turn says it is responding to widespread violations by the terror group. It has killed or captured around 40 terrorists in tunnels in Rafah alone.

Other Hamas operatives in this region attempted to flee as supplies dwindled, the IDF say, but were intercepted with dozens eliminated and more taken prisoner. The number of terrorists still active around here is unclear but is believed to be in the hundreds. Soldiers warn us to stay alert for potential attacks. Hamas continues to target IDF forces stationed along the Yellow Line, the boundary Israel withdrew to under the first stage of President Trump’s 20-point peace plan. Meanwhile, despite the ceasefire Gaza’s civilians continue to bear the brunt of the war. Israeli bombings continue almost daily.

According to Hamas-run health authorities, 69,000 Palestinians have been killed since October 2023, with many more wounded, homes levelled, and families displaced. Despite the ceasefire framework, Hamas still governs Gaza with an iron fist, executing rival gang members in front of crowds in the street. Yet Israel’s Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu last week said the first phase of the UN-endorsed plan is nearing completion and that the second, which must include Hamas’s disarmament, will start soon. Seeing up close the underground labyrinths from which the terrorists exert their power, I find it impossible to comprehend them ever laying down their arms.

From the ground, it is also hard to imagine how Israel will uncover and destroy every tunnel – a vital objective they must complete before withdrawing. The very first condition of the October 10 ceasefire was that all hostages both living and dead would be returned. But two months later Israel still waits for its final hostage. Ran Gvili, an Israeli police officer who was abducted and killed during the October 7 attacks, has still not been returned. Despite suffering a broken shoulder, he went out to confront the terrorists head-on, giving his life to protect others. He died shortly afterwards, Israeli authorities have said, but until they see his body Gvili’s family still hope for a miracle. 

His mother Talik says Israel won’t heal until he is returned – a sentiment shared by the relatives of every hostage. But even if he is returned, and were Hamas to disarm, the future governance of Gaza remains entirely uncertain. Just this week Sir Tony Blair was reportedly dropped from consideration to chair Mr Trump’s ‘board of peace’ in Gaza following objections from Arab and Muslim states. He had been the only person identified to oversee the interim body which is hoped will be established to lead the Strip on a brighter path following Hamas’ dismantling. But now those familiar with the matter say he is out due to his perceived closeness to Israel and role in the Iraq and Afghanistan wars.

So, what next for Gaza? Hamas may finally lay down their weapons. Perhaps their underground network will soon all be destroyed. But down here in the tunnels of death, two months on from Mr Trump’s historic deal, that feels a long way off. Only one thing is clear. The memories these haunting chambers hold, and the unimaginable suffering on all sides, will endure long after the dust settles on this wretched war.