The cover of British Vogue’s February issue featuring nine black models has been branded ‘offensive’ on social media as critics claim bad lighting and poor styling hid the women’s features and made their skin blacker to cater to the ‘white gaze’.
It marks the first time Vogue has featured a group of black women this size on the cover, for an issue celebrating the rise of African models, and was photographed by Brazilian photographer Rafael Pavarotti, who has previously shot black models in the same fashion, making their skin look ultra-dark.
Starring models Adut Akech, Amar Akway, Majesty Amare, Akon Changkou, Maty Fall, Janet Jumbo, Abény Nhial, Nyagua Ruea and Anok Yai, the cover was styled by British Vogue’s Editor-In-Chief Edward Enninful OBE.
Mr Enninful was appointed editor of British Vogue in 2017, taking over from Alexandra Shulman, after the publication was criticised for a lack of diversity, and promptly assembled a woke squad of 15 women to bring diversity into editions across Europe.
However, this latest imagery has been met with furious backlash online, with dozens of fans saying the ‘badly lit’ image appeared to darken the models, who have a range of skin tones, to a point where they were unrecognisable and look like ‘mannequins’.
A behind-the-scenes video of the shoot featuring the models having their hair and make-up done shows the diversity of their skin tones, sugesting that it was the ligthing rather than cosmetics that made them look so different.
One critic commented: ‘British Vogue? So…they gathered all of these beautiful women and decided not to use lighting properly? One can’t even identify who is who! And the wigs? Those women have very beautiful fascinating dark skins, so why DARKEN them like that?’
A fellow critic accused the Brazilian photographer of catering for the white gaze by ‘fetishising’ the models and exaggerating the models’ skin tones, saying: ‘You can be unapologetically black without caricature.’
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The cover of British Vogue’s February issue has caused a stir on social media as critics say the magazine disrespected nine black women on the front with bad lighting and poor styling
Mr Enninful, who styled the photoshoot, was appointed after British Vogue, taking over from Alexandra Shulman, after the publication was criticised for a lack of diversity (pictured left). The Vogue cover was shot by Brazilian photographer Rafael Pavarotti (right)
A H&M campaign by photographer Rafael Pavarotti, who is known for shooting black models in the same fashion, making their skin look ultra-dark
Adut Akech on British Vogue’s February 2022 cover. She said when she first started modelling she was the ‘only Black, dark-skinned girl in the show’
A critic accused the Brazilian photographer of catering for the white gaze by ‘fetishising’ the models and making them look like ‘mannequins’ with identical skin tones, while another said the cover was ‘offensive’ for failing to showcase the beauty of black skin
Another critic of the cover commented: ‘Edward Enninful was foul for that Vogue cover. That lighting, wigs, outfits, errything was anti-black.
‘I don’t care, I don’t care. You took the most beautiful women on the planet and made sure we couldn’t see them on an issue about visibility? @BritishVogue, shaking my head.’
A fifth wrote that it was ‘honestly terrible’, while another added: ‘Look I am a fan of British Vogue since Mr Enninful became EIC but I’m honestly not sure why this cover is not well-lit and why the models are made to be mannequinn-esque and we lose their features and beauty.’
One commented: ‘Why are they blending in with the garments? Why not well lit and with colour that compliments their features?’
However the cover reveal has been met with furious backlash online, with many accusing Vogue of ‘bad lighting’ and ‘darkening the skin’ of the models
‘Everything blends in,’ another wrote, ‘The hair the same colour as the skin. Crazy. I think this is the aesthetic they go for when shooting black skin though.
‘Not the first time I’ve seen this look from them.’
Others commented that they wished the styling had been different on the shoot, with one writing: ‘TBH I personally would have liked to see more colour here with the makeup/wardrobe – we all know melanin pops against brighter hues – and at least one person with their natural hair in this shot.
‘Also the lighting could use some work. But we’ll take this as a start.’
In one shot, the models sit on a green sofa wearing bright colours which pop against the low lighting, while in the cover shot all nine models wear all black outfits.
Explaining the inspiration behind shooting an all black, all African cover, Edward, who was born in Ghana and moved to west London as a child, said: ‘I saw all these incredible models from across Africa who were just so vivacious and smart.
The A-list photographer who has shot Harry Styles, Rihanna and Marcus Rashford: Who is Rafael Pavarotti – known for styling his portraits of black women to make their skin look ultra-dark?
Photographer Rafael Pavarotti was born in Brazil’s Amazon rainforest in 1993, where his earliest photographs were taken with a group of friends who pooled their money to buy camera film.
At 16, the photographer left his remote hometown to pursue a career in fashion and media and his since built a career travelling the world to photograph for high-profile clients.
His A-list roster of clients includes Vogue Paris, i-D magazine and Dior and he’s shot celebrities including Marcus Rashford, Kate Moss, Rihanna and Harry Styles.
Pictured, South Sudanese-Australian model Adut Akech photographed by Brazilian photographer Rafael Pavarotti
His recent collection, shot in collaboration with i-D’s fashion editor Ibrahim Kamara, saw the photographer return to his Amazonian homeland with the goal of ‘illuminating Black and radicalised bodies through fashion and image’
According to 1854, the publisher of the British Photography Journal, his work uses a mix of both analogue and digital photography and often involves deep colours, studio shots and darkroom techniques.
‘The celebration of Black and indigenous experience specifically will always be a part of my work, because it’s also a part of me’, he told the digital media company.
‘As an Afro-Indigenous Brazilian photographer, my existence and work are already political. With just one photo you can open up a whole history, or tell a whole story through different colours, styling and mediums.’
His recent collection, shot in collaboration with i-D’s fashion editor Ibrahim Kamara, saw the photographer return to his Amazonian homeland with the goal of ‘illuminating Black and radicalised bodies through fashion and image’.
In his online biography, the photographer is described as passionate about ‘addressing the imbalance of Black representation in fashion and broader historical narratives’ and keen to help ‘under-represented populations of today find equitable representation in the future’.
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‘These girls are redefining what it is to be a fashion model.’
‘We need to ensure these girls last. We have to invest in them, nurture them and support them with editorial, with advertising, with shows.’
‘It’s sad and heart-breaking for me to see girls who are on the rise suddenly taper off.
‘We need to ensure these girls last. We have to invest in them, nurture them and support them with editorial, with advertising, with shows. It has to be 360. Alek Wek didn’t suddenly become Alek Wek.
‘There was a group of us behind girls like her, propelling them forward. This is what we have to do in all our different roles.
‘Getting these girls and then throwing them away after one season? That has to stop.’
Mr Enninful was appointed editor of British Vogue, taking over from Alexandra Shulman, after the publication was criticised for a lack of diversity.
British Vogue has revealed its February 2022 cover, featuring nine black women who are ‘redefining what it means to be a model’.
Following the announcement, Naomi Campbell said she was ‘looking forward to inclusive and diverse staff’ under Mr Enninful.
One of his first tasks was to assemble a 15-strong squad of women, dubbed Edward’s Angels, charged with bringing a ‘diverse perspective’ into Vogue editions across Europe.
He was given control following a restructuring which pushed him to the upper echelons of the Conde Nast empire, answering only to US-based editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.
The highest-profile Angels included Edward’s right-hand women Vanessa Kingori and Sarah Harris, as well as four new European editors – Italy’s Francesca Ragazzi, France’s Eugenie Trochu, Spain’s Ines Lorenzo and Kerstin Weng of Germany.
A source at British Vogue said at the time: ‘Edward is the original champion of diversity at Vogue and has hand-picked these girls to be the most glamorous woke squad in Europe.
‘He has tasked them with transforming the European Vogue titles. They are preparing to roll out their new front covers in the next few weeks and the change will be clear for all to see at last.’
Enninful’s predecessor Alexandra Shulman later took a swipe at him in her 2020 book Clothes … and Other Things That Matter, saying: ‘A narrative was growing up around British Vogue being a place that was filled with ‘posh white girls’ that he [Enninful, who is black] would be getting rid of.’
It’s not the first time Vogue has been met with criticism for the way it has styled a black woman on its cover.
In February 2021, Kamala Harris’ cover of Vogue caused a stir as critics say the magazine disrespected the vice president-elect by ‘white-washing’ her skin and putting her in a pair of Converse.
The cover from the issue surfaced on Twitter, showing Harris, America’s first vice president of color, wearing a black suit jacket, white tee shirt, dark cropped pants and black lace-up sneakers.
Dozens of fans came out to condemn the cover, saying the low-quality photo fell short of Vogue’s usual style standards and appeared to have lightened Harris’ skin.
In February 2021, Kamala Harris’ cover of Vogue caused a stir as critics say the magazine disrespected the vice president-elect by ‘white-washing’ her skin and putting her in a pair of Converse
It comes after Anna Wintour came into the cross-hairs of America’s reckoning on race over 18 months ago after she was accused of discriminating against employees because of the color of their skin.
The 71-year-old from London, who has been at the helm of Vogue for more than three decades, responded to the outrage by issuing an extraordinary mea culpa in June 2020.
In a company-wide memo, Wintour admitted to allowing ‘hurtful and intolerant’ behavior at the magazine and conceded that she had not done enough to champion black staffers and designers.
However Wintour’s letter did little to quell the controversy surrounding her decision to remain in her role – and in October, a group of 18 black journalists who have worked with her over the years accused her of favoring employees who are thin, white, and from elite backgrounds in a piece published by the New York Times.
Meanwhile Anna Wintour has previously come into the cross-hairs of America’s reckoning on race after she was accused of discriminating against employees because of the color of their skin
Eleven of them called for her resignation following offensive incidents involving her use of the word ‘pickaninny’, and other cultural appropriation controversies, including outrage over a 2017 Vogue shoot that featured Karlie Kloss posing in a geisha outfit, with her face in pale makeup and her hair dyed black.
The photo shoot in Japan drew immediate accusations of ‘yellowface’, however Wintour reportedly shut down concerns from her staff, insisting that the pictures could not be cut because it would incur an ‘enormous expense’.
Wintour responded to the Times piece with another apology, writing: ‘I strongly believe that the most important thing any of us can do in our work is to provide opportunities for those who may not have had access to them.
‘Undoubtedly, I have made mistakes along the way, and if any mistakes were made at Vogue under my watch, they are mine to own and remedy and I am committed to doing the work.’
In December 2020, Wintour was promoted to become the first-ever chief executive of Condé Nast, in addition to her roles as Vogue Editor-in-Chief and Condé Nast artistic director.
Her title, global chief content officer of Condé Nast and global editorial director of Vogue, gave her control over all of the publications 25 editions across the globe.
See the full feature in the February issue of British Vogue available via digital download and on newsstands from Tuesday 18th January
From Africa’s most successful model to the first Sudanese woman to open a Prada show: Who are the nine black models on the cover on February’s British Vogue?
Adut Akech
Vogue describe Adut Akech as ‘arguably the most successful African model working today’. The 22-year-old South Sudanese-Australian first caught the eye of the fashion world when she modelled for Saint Laurent in Spring Summer 2017 shows.
Edward Enninful and Adut Akech attend the Claridge’s Zodiac Party hosted by Diane von Furstenberg & Edward Enninful to celebrate the Claridge’s Christmas Tree 2018
The 22-year-old South Sudanese-Australian first caught the eye of the fashion world when she modelled for Saint Laurent in Spring Summer 2017 shows. She is pictured on the beach
Speaking in the new issue, the 22-year-old explained: ‘When I first started modelling internationally, I would literally be the only Black, dark-skinned girl in the show. There were no Sudanese models, no African models. Now, I go to a show and there are girls from my country, girls from Africa who look like me. So yes, there has been a huge change.’
Adut added that she hopes that the uprising of African models goes beyond a trend: ‘I mean, that is the goal, that it becomes more than a moment. Actually, I don’t see it being a trend. Also, there are so many of us – we are just not going to go out of style.’
Since, she’s appeared in multiple Vogue campaigns – including a cover of Australian Vogue (pictured)
Vogue describe Adut Akech as ‘arguably the most successful African model working today’.
The 22-year-old South Sudanese-Australian first caught the eye of the fashion world when she modelled for Saint Laurent in Spring Summer 2017 shows.
Since, she’s appeared in multiple Vogue campaigns – including a cover of Australian Vogue.
Speaking in the new issue, she explained: ‘When I first started modelling internationally, I would literally be the only Black, dark-skinned girl in the show. There were no Sudanese models, no African models. Now, I go to a show and there are girls from my country, girls from Africa who look like me. So yes, there has been a huge change.’
She added that she hopes that the uprising of African models goes beyond a trend: ‘I mean, that is the goal, that it becomes more than a moment. Actually, I don’t see it being a trend. Also, there are so many of us – we are just not going to go out of style.’
Adut has been in many high-end campaigns, and says her favourite fashion memory was attending the 2018 Met Gala with Valentino.
Akon Changkou
LIke Adut, Akon is South-Sudanese Australian and has been taking the fashion word by storm in the last few years. She is pictured on holiday
Akon Changkou, Alton Mason and Maty Fall attend the amfAR Gala 2021 presented by The Red Sea International Film Festival during the 74th annual Cannes Film Festival
Her campaigns include Versace and Chanel- with her also named as one of the top newcomers in 2020. She is pictured posing for Instagram
The 24-year-old launched her career when she was booked as an exclusive for Louis Vuitton during the SS20 shows. Only four month after being scouted, she was whisked away from her hometown of Adelaide, Australia to New York and then to Paris, to walk her debut show at the Louvre (pictured)
She is now a face seen at fashion week (left at Michael Kors in September, right, walking in Louis Vuitton 2021/22 show in France
LIke Adut, Akon is South-Sudanese Australian and has been taking the fashion word by storm in the last few years.
The 24-year-old launched her career when she was booked as an exclusive for Louis Vuitton during the SS20 shows.
Only four month after being scouted, she was whisked away from her hometown of Adelaide, Australia to New York and then to Paris, to walk her debut show at the Louvre.
Her campaigns include Versace and Chanel- with her also named as one of the top newcomers in 2020.
Speaking in 2020, she told LOVE magazine her biggest hurdle was ‘leaving everything I was comfortable with behind to pursue a career I had no hope of succeeding at and learning how to be comfortable in a situation where I had nothing.
‘It was hard at the beginning because I didn’t feel supported and I completely doubted my abilities.’
Amar Akway
The Ethiopian model’s has also starred in campaigns for Max Mara, Moschino, Zara, Hermes (left) Versace, Victoria Beckham, Fendi and Tod’s (right after the Tod’s show at 2021 Milan Fashion Week)
Amar Akway poses in first looks backstage before the Isabel Marant Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 show as part of Paris Fashion Week
mar Akway wears a assymetrical black leather jacket, black leather pants, and black leather combat boots during Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020
A relative newcomer with less than 6,000 Instagram followers – her fame is set to skyrocket in 2022 with fashion houses calling her non-stop.
This isn’t the first Vogue campaign for Amar Akway, 21, who has previously graced the cover of Vogue Japan and Italy.
She says her best fashion memory is working Steven Meisel, the famed photographer known for his friendship with Madonna and work with Vogue Italia.
This isn’t the first Vogue campaign for Amar Akway, 21, who has previously graced the cover of Vogue Japan and Italy.
The Ethiopian model’s has also starred in campaigns for Max Mara, Moschino, Zara, Hermes, Versace, Victoria Beckham, Fendi and Tod’s.
A relative newcomer with less than 6,000 Instagram followers – her fame is set to skyrocket in 2022 with fashion houses calling her non-stop.
She says her best fashion memory is working Steven Meisel, the famed photographer known for his friendship with Madonna and work with Vogue Italia.
Majesty Amare
Newcomer model Majesty, 24, from the US, is set for a great season ahead having previously walked for Versace, Chanel, Michael Kors, and Louis Vuitton.
She made her debut for the Proenza Schouler show during New York Fashion Week after being spotted on Instagram.
The LA native has now moved to New York and says she swears by shea butter to revitalize her skin after repeated make-up removal. Named as one to watch and previously appearing in Vogue Paris, she’s also got growing social following with more than 15,000 TikTok followers.
Newcomer model Majesty, 24, from the US, is set for a great season ahead having previously walked for Versace, Chanel, Michael Kors, and Louis Vuitton.
She made her debut for the Proenza Schouler show during New York Fashion Week after being spotted on Instagram.
The LA native has now moved to New York and says she swears by shea butter to revitalize her skin after repeated make-up removal.
Named as one to watch and previously appearing in Vogue Paris, she’s also got growing social following with more than 15,000 TikTok followers.
Maty Fall
Still in her teens, Senegalese-Italian model is set to be a huge star. The model, 19, made her debut during SS20, first being spotted in a catwalk debut for Saint Laurent before closing the Valentino’s show.
Currently ranked as one of the Top 50 Models on Models.com, she walked more shows during the SS21 season than any other model, most notably closing Dior.
Still in her teens, Senegalese-Italian model is set to be a huge star.
The model, 19, made her debut during SS20, first being spotted in a catwalk debut for Saint Laurent before closing the Valentino’s show.
Currently ranked as one of the Top 50 Models on Models.com, she walked more shows during the SS21 season than any other model, most notably closing Dior.
Born in Senegal, she moved to Italy aged 9 – where her father had lived for 30 years and recently became an Italian citizen.
Janet Jumbo
The youngest on the list at just 18, Nigerian star Janet Jumbo has already been in campaigns for Balmain, Louis Vuitton (left and right) and Tod’s. She was the first Nigerian to ever walk for Louis Vuitton, when the French fashion house signed her for wide exclusive for Louis Vuitton in their AW19 show.
Speaking about the shoot, she said: ‘ Shooting with a cast of other Black girls is the best thing ever; the energy on set is by far one of the greatest things I’ve ever experienced.’
The youngest on the list at just 18, Nigerian star Janet Jumbo has already been in campaigns for Balmain, Louis Vuitton and Tod’s.
She was the first Nigerian to ever walk for Louis Vuitton, when the French fashion house signed her for wide exclusive for Louis Vuitton in their AW19 show.
Speaking about the shoot, she said: ‘ Shooting with a cast of other Black girls is the best thing ever; the energy on set is by far one of the greatest things I’ve ever experienced.’
Abény Nhial
The third Australian on the cover, Abény Nhial is all about positivity – even her Instagram handle is ‘be kind & spread love’.
The 21-year-old already has famous fans, with Kate Middleton’s wedding dress designer Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen among her bookings.
Speaking about appearing on the cover of Vogue, she said it was her ‘favourite memory’ as she was working with the ‘most beautiful women and working with the legendary Edward and the Vogue team.’.
The third Australian on the cover, Abény Nhial is all about positivity – even her Instagram handle is ‘be kind & spread love’.
The 21-year-old already has famous fans, with Kate Middleton’s wedding dress designer Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen among her bookings.
Speaking about appearing on the cover of Vogue, she said it was her ‘favourite memory’ as she was working with the ‘most beautiful women and working with the legendary Edward and the Vogue team.’.
Nyagua Ruea
One of four South Sudanese stars on the cover, Nyagua, 20, is best friends with with Maty and Adut and have been on holiday and campaigned together.
Nyagua Ruea walks the runway during the Mugler show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021
She says her favourite fashion memory was walking the Valentino show in Paris is 10 other South Sudanese girls and 20 black girls. She is pictured in Dubai
Speaking about the Vogue shoot, she said: ‘For the first time in the history of my modelling career, we had an all-Black team, from the photographer and stylist to the make-up artist, hair stylist, set designer and of course the models. Getting to experience this first hand was such a moving moment. I hope we can get more of these moments in the future.’
One of four South Sudanese stars on the cover, Nyagua, 20, is best friends with with Maty and Adut and have been on holiday and campaigned together.
She says her favourite fashion memory was walking the Valentino show in Paris is 10 other South Sudanese girls and 20 black girls.
Her other campaigns include Hermes, H&M, Alexander McQueen, Lacoste and Givenchy.
Speaking about the Vogue shoot, she said: ‘For the first time in the history of my modelling career, we had an all-Black team, from the photographer and stylist to the make-up artist, hair stylist, set designer and of course the models. Getting to experience this first hand was such a moving moment. I hope we can get more of these moments in the future.’
Anok Yai
She also turned heads at the Met Gala, wearing a Carlos Nazario look. Anok has previously posed for Vogue Japan, Vogue Netherlands and Vogue Germany. In September 2021, she appeared on the cover of US Vogue along witth Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber.
Perhaps the most famous model on the list is Anok Yai, 24, who has A-list pals including Bella Hadid and Heidi Klum. Pictured at Heidi Klum’s Halloween party
Anok was born in Egypt to South Sudanese parents and emigrated to the US when she was two. She found fame when he became the second Black model after Naomi Campbell, and the first South Sudanese woman, to open a Prada show during the autumn/winter 2018 season.
Perhaps the most famous model on the list is Anok Yai, 24, who has A-list pals including Bella Hadid and Heidi Klum.
Anok was born in Egypt to South Sudanese parents and emigrated to the US when she was two. She found fame when he became the second Black model after Naomi Campbell, and the first South Sudanese woman, to open a Prada show during the autumn/winter 2018 season.
She also turned heads at the Met Gala, wearing a Carlos Nazario look.
Anok has previously posed for Vogue Japan, Vogue Netherlands and Vogue Germany. In September 2021, she appeared on the cover of US Vogue along witth Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber.
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Source: DailyMail
