92-year-old's bittersweet journey to becoming a New York candy-store icon
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In the heart of Manhattan’s East Village, Ray’s Candy Store stands as a beloved 24-hour destination, celebrated for its iconic egg creams and a variety of tempting treats. This storied establishment owes much of its charm and enduring appeal to the intriguing life journey of its owner, Ray Alvarez, who has been at the helm since he acquired the shop in 1974.

Ray Alvarez was born Asghar Ghahraman in 1933 on a farm in Iran. Tragically, his mother passed away when he was just a baby. Alvarez’s father sent him to live with his teenage sister in Tehran, where he spent his early years observing the bustling life around him. Despite the challenges of a difficult upbringing, including being left to his own devices, Alvarez’s curiosity was piqued when he asked a young boy where he was heading. The boy’s answer, “School, you learn a lot of things,” inspired Alvarez to follow him, marking a pivotal moment in his life.

However, Alvarez’s formal education was short-lived. His father later withdrew him from school and sent him to work in a factory, where he earned a meager wage of 79 cents per week. Seeking a better life, Alvarez joined the Iranian Navy, drawn by the promise of regular meals and higher pay. He was assigned to work below decks on a ship’s boiler, but after nearly a decade, he longed for freedom. When his ship docked in Norfolk, Virginia, Alvarez seized the opportunity to escape his maritime life.

Under the cover of night, Alvarez left the ship before it set sail again, purchasing a bus ticket to Miami to begin anew. Without legal documentation, he adopted the name “Ramon Alvarez” and soon found himself en route to New York City with just $7 to his name. Upon arrival, Alvarez faced the daunting task of finding employment, initially struggling to secure work in bars and restaurants.

Eventually, an employment agency placed him at a tennis club, where Alvarez thrived for a decade. However, his success was overshadowed by a troubling incident with his manager, who discovered Alvarez’s precarious citizenship status and demanded $5,000 to keep quiet. Fearing deportation, Alvarez reluctantly paid the sum, never to see the money again. Despite this setback, Alvarez’s resilience and determination have cemented his legacy in the vibrant tapestry of New York City life.

Ray struck out looking for jobs at bars and restaurants when he first arrived. An employment agency placed him at a tennis club where Alvarez excelled and worked for the next ten years. Alvarez says things went south when his manager blackmailed him over his citizenship status. “One day he said, ‘you know what… Immigration! They come with handcuffs and send you to your country. But if I give him $5,000 (he) don’t call no immigration,” Alvarez paid up. He says his boss, “didn’t call immigration and I never got that money back.”

Alvarez had been saving money while he had been living in New York and was looking to purchase a restaurant. A friend suggested Ray buy a candy store instead, considering the volatile nature of the restaurant business. Luckily a guy on Avenue A was ready to cash out. He sold the store to Alvarez for the $33,000 he had in his savings.

In 1986, Alvarez received amnesty when President Ronald Regan signed the Immigration Reform and Control Act. In 2011 he officially became a naturalized American citizen.

The 92-year-old neighborhood celebrity says he still has years of work left in him, proclaiming, “8 more years… I’ll be 100. I’ll retire.”

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