Gretchen's Table Introduces Spicy, Cheesy Delight with Papas con Rajas Tacos

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By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

The holiday season often turns into a whirlwind of activity, especially when your home is buzzing with guests, and toddlers and infants are part of the mix.

So, it wasn’t entirely shocking when a five-pound bag of Yukon gold potatoes, intended for a creamy mashed potato dish, vanished on Thanksgiving morning. With four of my five adult children and their little ones visiting for the holiday feast, my kitchen was bustling with high chairs, booster seats, baby formula machines, and an abundance of wine and beer bottles.

Eventually, I discovered the missing potatoes hours later, after my husband made a frantic trip to the grocery store to replenish our supply. As it turned out, the bag had slipped into the basket where we store our cutting boards. (In a comical side note, my husband also forgot to put the turkey in the oven, and my son managed to cook a chicken upside down, but those tales are for another time.)

Given that potatoes can remain fresh for weeks when stored in a cool, dark spot, I wasn’t too concerned about being overwhelmed by these starchy staples. However, I was eager to try something different than the usual mashing or roasting.

The solution? Combine them with roasted poblano peppers, wrapped in a corn tortilla for a delightful twist.

I’m a big believer that anything can be stuffed into a taco, and indeed, papas con rajas (potatoes and poblano peppers) is a popular dish in Mexico.

It’s meatless, which appeals to vegetarians and vegans (if you leave out the cheese), but it’s still quite hearty, thanks to the potatoes and the creamy chipotle sauce that is spooned on top.

The dish also is a boon for busy cooks because it comes together quickly and easily with just two pans — one for boiling the potatoes, another for frying them with the other ingredients. True, it can be scary to roast peppers over an open flame. But if you use tongs to turn them, there should be no burned fingers.

Sliced onion and garlic give the filling a foundational flavor base, and a spicy chipotle sauce adds just the right amount of smoky heat.

I cut the potatoes into large chunks, but you also could opt for a small dice. If you can’t find poblano peppers, substitute Anaheim or Cubanelle. If Cotijta cheese is too expensive, use a crumbly feta instead.

I stuffed the filling into corn tortillas to make them gluten-free (if that’s an issue, check the can of chipotle in adobo to make sure it is, too), but flour tortillas are perfectly acceptable if that’s what you love. If you’re a fan of chopped cilantro, it’s great as a garnish. If you think it tastes like soap, leave it out.

Made too much for one meal? The potato/pepper mixture and chipotle sauce can be stored in sealed containers in the refrigerator for up to two days.

Papas con Rajas Tacos

PG tested

For filling

4 or 5 large poblano peppers

4 Yukon gold potatoes, cubed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1 large yellow onion, sliced thin into half moons

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon oregano

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Minced cilantro, for serving, optional

Crumbled Cotija cheese, for serving

8 corn tortillas, for serving

For chipotle sauce

1 or 2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce

1/2 cup sour cream or Greek yogurt

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 garlic clove, minced

Juice 1/2 fresh lime

Drizzle of honey, or more to taste

Salt, to taste

Roast poblanos over the flames of a gas stove or under the broiler, turning occasionally, until the skin is blackened and charred all over.

Place peppers in a resealable plastic bag or in a bowl with a plate to cover. Set aside for several minutes until cool enough to handle. (The steam will loosen the skin, making them easier to peel.)

Peel poblanos and remove the stem and seeds. Slice into thin strips or chunks and set aside.

Meanwhile, place potatoes in a pot and cover with water. Cover and bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer to cook until they are easily pierced with a fork, about 5-8 minutes. Drain and when cool, chop into bite-sized pieces.

While potatoes are cooking, make chipotle sauce. Add chipotles to a bowl, smash with a fork and then add sour cream, mayonnaise, garlic, lime juice and a drizzle of honey. Mix until smooth and well blended, then season to taste with a pinch or two of salt and more lime juice, if desired.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of oil. Add onions and a pinch of salt and fry for 5-7 minutes until they start to soften and turn a golden color.

Add roasted poblano strips, minced garlic, oregano, a pinch or two of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Sauté for another 2-3 minutes, until soft and tender.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and cooked potatoes to the skillet along with 1 teaspoon of salt. Fry for about 5 minutes, stirring only once or twice so the potatoes can brown.

Warm corn tortillas on a stovetop in a dry skillet for about 30 seconds per side, or in a 350-degree oven wrapped in foil for 10 minutes.

Spoon filling onto warmed corn tortillas, then top with a spoonful (or two) of creamy chipotle sauce, minced cilantro (if using) and crumbled Cotija cheese.

Serves 4.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette