Army Vet Jim Whittaker, First American on Everest, Dies at 97


Heroes have a way of inspiring us to aim higher and achieve more, embodying the best qualities we can aspire to emulate. Recently, America bid farewell to one such figure, Army veteran Jim Whittaker, renowned for being the first American to conquer the summit of Mt. Everest. Whittaker passed away at the age of 97, leaving behind a legacy that continues to inspire.

Jim Whittaker and his brother, Lou, were drawn to the thrill of climbing from a young age, driven by the simple yet profound challenge of “because it was there.” This adventurous spirit led them into the world of mountaineering, setting the stage for Jim’s historic climb.

Their lives took a different turn with the outbreak of the Korean War, as both brothers were drafted into the Army. Jim found himself at Camp Hale in Colorado, where his mountaineering prowess was put to use training soldiers in the 10th Mountain Division. His skills were not only instrumental during his military service but also paved the way for his future endeavors.

After completing his military service, Jim Whittaker embarked on a new journey in 1955, joining the newly-established outdoor gear company REI as its first employee. His career at REI spanned 25 years, starting with humble beginnings of stocking shelves and culminating in his rise to President and CEO. Under his leadership, REI grew into a prominent name in the outdoor industry, reflecting his passion and dedication to the field he loved.

His 1963 ascent of the world’s tallest peak made him an overnight celebrity, earned him a meeting with President John F. Kennedy and launched a decades-long career that helped transform the American outdoor recreation industry. But before any of that, Whittaker was a U.S. soldier, drafted into the Army during the Korean War and assigned to train some of the military’s best troops in the mountains of Colorado.

Climbing mountains was something that Whittaker and his brother, Lou, had been involved with since they were young men. It seems “because it was there” was good enough reason to make any such attempt.

Whittaker and his twin brother, Lou, were born Feb. 10, 1929, and grew up in the Arbor Heights neighborhood of West Seattle. They discovered climbing as teenagers through the Boy Scouts and the Mountaineers, a Seattle-based outdoor club, according to a tribute posted by the organization.

By 16, the brothers had summited Mount Olympus, the highest peak in Washington’s Olympic Mountains at 7,965 feet. In his memoir, “A Life on the Edge,” Whittaker recalled that when they reached the town of Port Angeles on the return trip, they found cars honking and people celebrating the end of World War II.

The brothers were drafted into the Army on the outbreak of the Korean War, and Jim ended up at Camp Hale, Colorado, where he put his mountaineering skills to good use training the soldiers of the 10th Mountain Division. After his service, in 1955, Jim Whittaker joined the newly-founded outdoor gear company REI as their first employee, turning in a 25 year career that started with stocking shelves and ended up with Mr. Whittaker as President and CEO.


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