This Cork Producer Makes Wines That Highlight Indigenous Portuguese Grapes

The family and group that own the world’s largest cork producer—Amorim—also produce Portuguese wines. They recently expanded their foray into both the Alentejo and Dão regions, where they make vintages from indigenous grape varieties that highlight Portuguese heritage.

Portugal has some 250 native grape varieties, although only a fraction of those are used to produce commercially viable wines. If you want to open your senses to a wider lexicon of wine aromas and flavors, consider trying wines made from grapes you know little about.

The Alentejo region of Portugal sits above the country’s southernmost strip—well known to visitors—named the Algarve. It is comprised of a northern, or upper (‘alto’) inland portion and a southern, or lower (‘baixo’) coastal and inland portion. The Alentejo forms about one-third of the total land mass of Portugal, but includes only 5% of its population. It is traditionally renowned for forestry and farming, including the production of cheese, lamb and honey.

In 1994 the Amorim family acquired a nine-square mile [2,400 hectare] Portuguese estate named Herdade Aldeia de Cima in the Alentejo. Named after an ancient village of ‘Sima’ first mentioned in the 18^th century, this historically and culturally patchworked terrain has been occupied by Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths and Moors. Located inland, and about a third of the way between Lisbon and Portugal’s southern border, this property sits on the dividing line that separates alto and baixo Alentejo. In 2017, Luisa Amorim began planting vines here and rebuilding an ancient village. The terrain includes schist outcrops, and daily temperatures can vary by almost 40 degrees Fahrenheit [20 degrees Celsius].

Grapes are now grown here on 50 acres [20 hectares] of land. Two-thirds are red and one-third white. The eventual 100,000 bottle annual wine production will be based on a dozen indigenous grapes growing in four vineyards.

During a recent livestream, winemaker Jorge Alves spoke about grapes planted at Herdade Aldeia de Cima. For whites these are Antão Vaz, Alvarinho and Arinto. For reds: Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira, Alfrocheira and Aragonêz [Tempranillo, or Tinta Roriz].

He emphasized the importance of Trincadeira for red, and of Antão Vaz for whites.

“Alentejo is a huge region, about 300 kilometers [185 miles] long. You can find high altitudes in the northern part, and flat lands in the south where corn and cereals are cultivated. When we arrived here [from the northern Douro region] we looked at local varieties. For reds there is a grape called Trincadeira, which is called Tinta Amarela in the north of Portugal. We call it our Syrah because of its spiciness, savoriness and good structure. In Alentejo it was a variety responsible for 50% of wines, but now growers are removing it and planting other vines. It can be grown without irrigation to make beautiful wines.

“For whites—we tasted the local thick skinned Antão Vaz grape and decided to keep it. It has a rich body, and good affinity for French oak. Wines made with it have a local taste but also have potential to become international on the palate and on the nose. It’s amazing. Our Reserva white includes the integration of three beautiful varieties. Sometimes Antão Vaz needs a kick of acidity, which is why we bring Alvarinho and Arinto into the blend. Alvarinho comes from the northwest of the Iberian peninsula and has been planted in Alentejo for at least one hundred years, and Arinto comes not far from Lisbon and came to Alentejo in the last 10 years.”

Alves also praised the red grape Alicante Bouschet (originally from France, this grape was also planted extensively in California during Prohibition in the U.S.). He says it finds stellar expression in Alentejo.

“The Alentejo is the only place in the world where Alicante Bouschet expresses itself very well.”

Two years ago the Amorim Group also acquired vines and a winery in the Dão region of Portugal. Named Taboadella, this venture also focuses on local grapes. The 100-acre (40-hectare) parcel of land was settled in the first century by Romans, who built a villa, winery and a granary. It was again resettled in the year 1255 as a series of homes constructed within a pine, oak and chestnut forest. During later centuries the land was apparently a home for knights and their families.

Approximately 73% of their grapes here are red, and 27% white. Vines grow over steep granite subsoils that promote rapid drainage. Vines average 30 years in age, though some are a century old. None are irrigated. Red varieties include Jaen, Alfrocheira, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Pinheira, and Tinta Roriz [also known as Aragonêz, or Tempranillo] while whites include Encruzado, Bical and Cercial.

The almost 27,000 square foot (2,500 square meter) winery is located on a forest plateau. An existing building was retrofitted with modern equipment, and vibration is used to destem vines—resulting in less angular and sweeter wines. Gravity flow processes reduce early maceration.

Enologist Rodrigo Costa spoke about these wines.

“This is a very rich region with many grape varieties. We use 10 different varieties distributed by 40 hectare [100 acre] parcels. The queen variety of Portugal is Touriga Nacional—a cornerstone of all wines in terms of color, variety and aromas. It’s versatile. In Dão it naturally expresses the terroir, so here we can extract elegance.

“We also have a parcel dedicated to Encruzado, described first in the year 1842 as a white grape with the greatest potential. In the Dão region it has well defined aromas and fruit, and even a hint of hazelnuts, as well as great longevity.”

Costa also appreciates the unique qualities of monovarietal wine made with the red Alfrocheira grape.

“In the Dão region there are good Alfrocheira vineyards. Not many Dão wineries produce a single variety Alfrocheira. In my opinion its acidity, alcohol and tannins produce an exotic, almost savage taste.”

Winemaker Jorge Alves—who also consults for Taboadella—agreed.

“The Dão has a lot of Alfrocheira—a fantastic variety to discover. It is an ancestral variety which makes magnificent wines, where its finesse is defined by elegance and density. It is well known in the Dão region, and brings layers of fruit to wine.”

In addition to their series of monovarietal wines made with Jaen, Alfrocheira and Touriga Nacional grapes, their red and white Grande Villae blends are created to age well, with the red likely to last several decades.

Artisans in the region produce clay pottery, wool blankets and honey. Luisa Amorim explained that the site is designed to explore.

“In addition to the winery, we thought people might like to take a stroll in the vineyard. So, why not come and spend the day? When people arrive with families and friends, they can come just for a drink as if in a family home or a friend’s house. They can taste locals foods and products and take back the experience of the region.”

Tasting notes on wines from both regions are below. These wines score subjectively from 89 through 96 points on a 100-point scale.

Herdade Aldeia de Cima. Alyantiju (red). 2017.

The word ‘Alyantiju’ is an ancient Moorish word for the region now known as Alentejo in south/central Portugal. This wine made from 100% Alicante Bouschet grapes spends nine months aging in 500 liter new French oak barrels. Aromas pivot around a deep pocket of dark berries and include licorice, black cherries and black pepper. Steady equilibrium between tannins, alcohol and acidity. In the mouth, a calm propulsion of rounded fruits. Beautiful length with flavors that include cherries and cumin. Pair with duck or salmon. Only 3,000 bottles produced.

Herdade Aldeia de Cima. Reserva (red). 2017.

This is the first vintage of this wine. Working with proprietor Luisa Amorim, winemakers Jorge Alves and António Cavalheiro created a blend from 40% Trincadeira, 30% Alfrocheira and 30% Aragonêz (Tempranillo) grapes that then aged in new and used oak as well as in concrete tanks. Aromas have Malbec strength and Barolo power—and include scents of gorgeous cherries, white pepper, mint and eucalyptus. In the mouth this is almost where Spanish Rioja meets Italian Piemonte—with assertive tastes of red fruits, dark chocolate, candy cane and aniseed. Will make you want to keep on drinking, perhaps with a steak dinner. 9,000 bottles produced.

Herdade Aldeia de Cima. Alyantiju (white). 2018.

From the Serra do Mendro and Vidigueira regions of Alentejo comes this 90/10 blend of Antão Vaz and Alvarinho grapes, which age in 100% new 500-liter oak barrels. Commanding and succulent aromas of quince and grapefruit and very open. In the mouth—grapefruits and tropical fruits with an even blend of fruit and acidity. Juicy and satisfying length. Consider pairing with sushi. Less than 2,750 bottles produced.

Herdade Aldeia de Cima. Reserva (white). 2018.

A 50/40/10 blend of Arinto/Alvarinho/Antão Vaz grapes. Buttery aromas from the French oak, as well as aromas of tropical fruits—focused and intense. In the mouth this includes beautifully creamy acidity and is a tightrope of balanced and precise tastes. Pair with fish such as sole or plaice, as well as poultry or apple crumble dessert.

Taboadella 1255. Villae (white). 2019.

A blend of three grapes that grow over granitic soils: Encruzado, Bical and Cercial. This low-temperature fermented wine maintains open, generous yet still precise aromas of light grapefruit and limes and some florals—thanks to the Bical grapes. This is an easy pour and an easy drinking wine for a late afternoon barbecue.

Taboadella 1255. Dão. Encruzado Reserva (white). 2018.

This wine is made from 100% Encruzado grapes (also known as Salguerinho) which are endemic to the Dão region. 50/50 aging for eight months in French oak and stainless steel. Swirling and generous sweet aromas, much like a Pinot Gris, with lime and even salt. In the mouth this is a buttery, creamy sizzler of acidity meeting sweetness. Tastes include those of lime and spearmint. According to winemaker Jorge Alves this single variety excellently mirrors the potential of the Dão wine region. 3,500 bottles produced.

Taboadella 1255. Dão. Grand Villae (white). 2018.

This is a blend of Encruzado, Bical and local ‘old vines’ that grow over granitic soils. Aged in French oak. Sweet and mildly, but attractive, herbaceous aromas—think where the wide open scent of a Pinot Gris meets a schisty Alvarinho. Open, generous, sweet aromas of nectarine, lime and cotton candy. In the mouth this includes generous and balanced and blasts citrus (oranges), honey and a hit of pepper. A sweet and sour meld with a slightly spicy length.

Taboadella 1255. Dão. Grand Villae (red). 2018.

A blend of Alfrocheira, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. The wine ages 12 months in new 500-liter French oak barrels. Includes young red fruit aromas with a hint of mocha, tar and raspberries. In the mouth—a taste of currants, blackberries, prunes, licorice. Tension between acidity and tannins. This will age for decades. 3,500 bottles produced.

Taboadella 1255. Dão. Jaen Reserva (red). 2018.

Made exclusively from the Jaen grape and aged 50/50 in new French oak and stainless steel for seven months. Piquant aromas of orange peel, nectarines and plums. A very open, generous, hearty red wine in the mouth with deep, juicy red fruit. It opens up after five minutes to include layers of cloves, tarragon and mandarin.

Taboadella 1255. Dão. Touriga Nacional Reserva. 2018.

Made from 50-year old vines of Touriga Nacional—an iconic Portuguese grape variety. This wine ages for seven months in both new French oak and stainless steel. Aromas include those of licorice, toast, raspberries. A deep and hefty hot climate wine with backbone and power. In the mouth this is a succulent and sweet ribbon of sultanas, mandarins, cloves and cumin. 5,000 bottles produced.

Taboadella 1255. Dão. Alfrocheira Reserva (red). 2018.

This 14% alcohol wine ages in both French oak and stainless steel for seven to eight months. Beautifully light and elegant aromas—almost Burgundian nose, and as pretty as a Beaujolais Cru from Fleurie. Aromas include florals—lilies and roses—as well as those of mint, leather and caramel. Think damp forest floor or a fern glen—morels and clover. The taste is beguiling—such as Nebbiolo meets Tempranillo—and includes a complex array of flavors such as port, tarragon, orange rind and boysenberry syrup. Production less than 8,400 bottles.

Taboadella 1255. Dão. Villae (red). 2018.

A well-structured elegant blend of four grape varieties: Jaen, Alfrocheira, Tinta Pinheira and Tinta Roriz. Aged in steel and includes 13.5% alcohol. Aromas are reminiscent of a Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend from Bordeaux, and include those of violets oranges, peaches and granite. In the mouth this is a hot climate, chewy wine with ample tastes of plums, prunes and sultanas. Quite juicy and succulent with a rum/orange rind length. Pair with pulled pork or spicy tomato soup.