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Galvin La Chapelle, London
©johncarey2024
This is the one time of year I don’t really think about eating. Not properly. As one of a bajillion-plus Londoners who’ve spent the last few days discussing little more than the many trials of this tortuous heatweave, I simply can’t summon the appetite. It’s, quite simply, too hot — and if that wasn’t enough of a food-loving killer, much of London smells like bin juice by noon.
I haven’t stopped eating, of course. And a few things have certainly cut through: a cold pint followed by a spice bag; a tomato on toast that tasted better than any vegetable previously conquered; indulgent, champagne-fuelled tasting menus over a crisp white tablecloth, et al.
The end of June may have made us all want to stay indoors and rot under wet flannels, but July might not be so bad. In fact, even if these temperatures do keep up, I’d hasten to say the restaurants below are worth a visit regardless.
Here’s where to eat and drink this month:
Galvin La Chapelle, London
Galvin La Chapelle
Where: Spitalfields
Why now: Ex-Club Gascon’s Arturo Granato is feeling creative in the kitchen — and it shows.
What to expect: The white tablecloths remain, the chapel ceiling still stuns, but the food’s had a sharp little refresh under head chef Arturo Granato. Think French classics done with a smirk: Brie on toast with pear chutney and Australian black truffle, duck à l’orange with smoked eel and braised fennel, and sauces broadly so good you’ll start thinking of future occasions to return. Come for the tasting menu, leave dreaming of the fermented cherry sorbet.
Vibe: Big date energy. Bring someone you’d share Champagne with.
Where: Southwark
Why now: Because sometimes you need a Guinness, a prawn cracker, and a bit of Celine Dion at 1am.
What to expect: A family-run Irish singing pub with a fresh new reno, Molly Mc’s serves proper pints, late-night singalongs, and nostalgic bar snacks that hit far harder than they should. There’s a classic spicebag, of course, as well as a number of Thai-inspired nibbles and mega plates when the drinks start to hit. No bookings needed (though advised if you want a sesh in one of its singing rooms). Just rock up, order a pint, and prepare to duet with a stranger.
Vibe: Rowdy but charming. Like a Dublin night out with the nicest group you know.
Where: Walthamstow
Why now: Because fermented food and Queer Beer makes the world go ‘round.
What to expect: A modest kitchen doing plant-based, migrant fusion cuisine — and doing it well. Pickling and fermentation are the throughline here, with seasonal small plates and generous platters that will delight anyone with a penchant for dip. The rotating menu of community-steeled salads, stews and beyond have brought something incredibly wholesome to an area flooded with chains, and regular events make for a wonderful space to spend lunchtimes and evenings alike. Light, clever, and just leftfield enough to feel like a proper find.
Vibe: Thoughtful food in your cool friend’s local.
Hera, London
Hera
Where: Stratford
Why now: Because it’s the closest you’ll get to Greece this side of the Jubilee line.
What to expect: Big energy, bigger portions, and a menu that hits every Greek food craving going — from creamy smoked tarama to feta saganaka that practically demand a spritz. The £60 [$82] set menu is outrageous value, featured a number of snacks for the table plus a starter, main and dessert of your choice, and the space is both large and gorgeous enough to host large parties and dinner dates alike. With live music-fuelled Greek nights, warm service and an outdoor terrace, it’s a destination in its own right.
Vibe: Party taverna meets proper dinner spot — souvlaki and serotonin abound.
Where: St James Street
Why now: A Korean street‑food standout that’s hit its stride.
What to expect: A proper flavor bomb from an indie team, Gochu Gang is all about Korean fried chicken in impossibly bold, punchy sauces. Soy Garlic, Honey Butter and Salt & Pepper all slap, but it’s the Sweet & Spicy coating that’s earned it top spot among my favorite fried chicken haunts in London. And I’m something of an expert.
Vibe: Sticky fingers, full heart. Eat inside if you’re in the mood for a little K-pop.