MILAN – After a three-year hiatus, Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean made her comeback to the Milan runway on Saturday. She showcased a collection crafted with artisans from Bhutan and urged for increased political backing to support the dwindling community of artisans who enhance the luxury fashion sector.
“I said I would come back when I had something to say,’’ Jean said backstage.
An appeal for artisans
Jean has consistently integrated global artisans into her collections by blending Italian tailoring with textiles, artistic accents, and garments sourced from traditional craftsmen, aiming to protect their cultural legacy.
Now, she says “Italian craftsmanship is dying out,” as fewer young people want to take up the trades.
To ensure the sustainability of artisan crafts, Jean urged Italian policymakers to grant high-quality craftsmanship the same tax advantages recently allocated to artworks. This incentive could motivate more customers to invest in craftsmanship that might take up to a year to create, such as the traditional ankle-length Bhutanese kira dress she donned on the runway.
The break would mean the consumer pays less value-added tax, while ensuring artisans are paid the same.
“Our position does not allow us to underpay them since the artisans are already undercompensated,’’ Jean remarked while making final adjustments to runway models backstage. “Otherwise, this craftsmanship might end up in museums. If we don’t incorporate it into daily wear, its significance diminishes.’’
Bhutan craftsmanship
Bhutanese artisans collaborated with Jean on items like traditional handwoven tego jackets laid over silk printed dresses, intricately embroidered skirts made from nettle fiber, skirts with embroidery paired with a rugby shirt, and a silk dress adorned with a beaded panel portraying a village panorama.
Jean’s front-row VIPs were the artisans she worked with, dressed in traditional garb.
Armani tribute
Jean marked her Milan runway debut in 2013 at the Armani Theater, as a guest of Giorgio Armani. She paid tribute to the late designer during her show, displaying the T-shirt she wore for that first appearance that read: “Grazie, Mr. Armani,” signed “Stella.”
“We cannot be here without paying a tribute, which is also a sign of respect to someone to whom I am not alone in owing a debt,” she said.
“Italian fashion became the most important in the world, thanks to this gentleman.’’
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