Pope Seeks Renewal of ‘Mind and Body’ During Retreat at Castel Gandolfo

ROME – On Sunday, Pope Leo XIV is set to retreat to the papal summer residence for a six-week holiday, marking the return of the prestigious occupant to the hilltop town of Castel Gandolfo. Unlike his predecessor Pope Francis, who did not visit during his 12-year reign, this move revives an old tradition.

Leo bid farewell to Rome during his Sunday noon blessing, saying he was taking a “brief period of rest.”

“I hope everyone can have some vacation time to restore the body and spirit,” Leo said from his studio window overlooking St. Peter’s Square.

Pope Leo XIV, originally from Chicago and 69 years of age, is opting to escape the Vatican’s summer heat in favor of the cooler temperatures of the Alban Hills, located to the south of Rome. This region has long been a favored retreat for Rome’s leaders, dating back to Emperor Domitian in the first century.

This vacation will be Leo’s first break following a hectic stretch of activities such as inaugural audiences, outings, and Holy Year festivities after his election as the first American pope on May 8. Although his vacation will include several public engagements, like Masses, Sunday noon prayers, and some events at the Vatican, it’s anticipated that he will take advantage of this time to delve into important matters affecting his new leadership.

Pope Urban VIII built the papal palace in Castel Gandolfo in 1624 to give popes an escape from Rome. It was enlarged over succeeding pontificates to its present size of 55 hectares (136 acres), bigger than Vatican City itself. On the grounds are a working farm, manicured gardens, an observatory run by Jesuit astronomers and, more recently, an environmental educational center inspired by Francis’ 2015 encyclical, Laudato Si (Praised Be).

Popes past used it regularly in summer, drawing huge crowds of pilgrims who would come on Sundays to hear his noon blessing, which was delivered inside the inner courtyard of the palace. Pope Benedict XVI famously closed out his papacy in the estate on Feb. 28, 2013. But Francis, a homebody who never took a proper vacation during his 12-year pontificate, decided to remain in Rome in summer.

So for Castel Gandolfo, Leo’s vacation is a welcome return. The town suffered an initial economic hit from pope-free summers when Francis opted for staycations, but once he turned the papal palace and gardens into a year-round museum that ended up benefiting the town even more, shopkeepers say.

“He made access to these structures possible, which no pope ever did in 400 years,” said Simone Mariani, who runs a restaurant in town that benefited from the steady flow of tourists much more than the summer-only Sunday crowds of the past. “He brought tourism that was good for the whole town.”

But that didn’t make up for the emotional loss felt in a town whose rhythms for generations revolved around regular papal visits. When the pope arrived, the palace doors would open, the Swiss Guards would stand at attention and the town would come to life, said Patrizia Gasperini, whose family runs a souvenir shop on the main piazza a few steps from the palace front door.

“All year, we’d miss the color, the movement, but we knew when summer came he would return,” she said. “So when Pope Francis decided not to come, we were upset on an emotional level, beyond the economic level.”

Mayor Alberto De Angelis said he hopes Leo will decide to use Castel Gandolfo not just for summer breaks, but for periodic vacations during the rest of the year, as St. John Paul II often did.

There is also a tradition of popes using their time at Castel Gandolfo to draft important church documents and encyclicals, and De Angelis said he hopes Leo follows in that tradition.

“We hope Pope Leo produces some text, some encyclical here that has a global reach,” he said. “And then to say that it came from Castel Gandolfo, that he was inspired and produced this text from here for the whole world.”

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Stellacci reported from Castel Gandolfo, Italy.

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