A barbecue restaurant in Sonoma County, which quickly gained the approval of celebrity chef Guy Fieri, is now facing significant opposition from nearby residents who claim that its smoke is causing a nuisance in the neighborhood.
A&M BBQ, which opened its doors in Sebastopol in June 2024, rapidly developed a dedicated customer base. However, it now finds itself embroiled in a contentious dispute over the outdoor smokers that have become a point of contention.
At a recent City Council meeting, frustrated locals voiced their concerns. Megan Cowan told SFGate that the situation has become “untenable,” particularly after the restaurant upgraded to larger smokers with higher smokestacks.
Restaurant owner and pitmaster Kristopher Austin expressed surprise at the backlash from the community.
“I never intended to disturb anyone,” Austin explained to the outlet.
What initially appeared to be a simple neighborhood grievance has escalated into a complex zoning issue, which threatens the very existence of the restaurant.
Austin said city officials approached the business in March and asked that one of its two smokers be removed. The smoker is now in storage, reducing the restaurant’s production capacity.
Sebastopol City Manager Mary Gourley said that in April, A&M BBQ was told its commercial smokers were not allowed at that location because local zoning rules ban outdoor commercial barbecues there.
It all came to a head when the city sent a formal notice giving the restaurant just 10 days to quit using its outdoor equipment.
Amid the uncertainty, Austin and business partner Finn Liss took to Instagram to address the ongoing drama.
“For nearly a year, we have actively been searching for a more appropriate long-term location that can better support our growth and operations,” they wrote in a May 14 post.
“Throughout this process, we have remained in communication with City staff and continue working toward solutions.”
But finding a new, zoning-compliant home in Sebastopol is proving to be a massive headache.
Recent attempts to move the smokers to an old Mary’s Pizza Shack site and a parking spot at a local Mexican restaurant didn’t pan out.
Gourley told the Daily Mail the city “values” A&M BBQ and its contribution to Sebastopol’s economy and community character.
“City staff remains committed to working with the business owner to identify complaint solutions and potential operational options moving forward,” she said.
Meanwhile, as the restaurant’s options become limited, Sebastopol mayor Larry Robinson suggested installing high-tech filtration equipment to meet the city’s wood-smoke rules—but a commercial setup like that can easily cost thousands of dollars.
