Some of America’s most respected chefs have revealed an unexpected favorite: Taco Bell, one of the country’s most divisive fast-food chains.
Harold Moore, executive chef at New York’s Cafe Commerce, singled out the Crunchwrap Supreme, praising its balance of flavors and textures alongside a $100 dish from his own restaurant.
“There is everything in the perfect bite. It’s hot, it’s cold, it’s crispy, it’s also supple. There’s spice, but then it has sour cream that calms it. It’s a very complete experience,” Moore told The Wall Street Journal.
One of the priciest dishes on Moore’s high-end menu is a whole chicken featuring herb-butter-crusted skin, crunchy sourdough stuffing and whipped mashed potatoes.
He compared that layered combination to the flavors packed into a Taco Bell taco, where seasoned ground beef, shredded cheese, iceberg lettuce and rich sour cream come together in a single bite.
The enthusiastic endorsement may surprise some customers, given Taco Bell’s controversial history and past concerns about its beef and food-safety record.
In 2011, the chain faced a class-action lawsuit alleging that it had mislabeled its “seasoned beef,” according to the Council on Hotel, Restaurant and Institutional Education.
The lawsuit questioned why Taco Bell’s beef included a “taco meat filling” containing non-meat ingredients and whether the product met United States Department of Agriculture (“USDA”) standards.
New York Cafe Commerce Executive Chef Harold Moore praised Taco Bell’s Crunchwrap while comparing its harmony of ingredients with his $100 whole-chicken dish
The chefs’ glowing reviews may surprise customers familiar with Taco Bell’s controversial history, including concerns about beef quality and foodborne illness outbreaks
The lawsuit was later dismissed after Taco Bell strongly denied the allegations. In response, the chain launched an advertising campaign costing more than $4 million, stating that its taco filling contained “88% of USDA-inspected premium beef.”
Earlier in June of that year, Taco Bell was also linked to a major Cyclospora outbreak that spread across the country.
The chain removed iceberg lettuce supplied by Taylor Farms from all of its food products after the contamination concerns emerged.
Even amid controversy over the chain’s food quality, acclaimed chefs have continued to champion Taco Bell’s comforting menu and instantly recognizable flavors.
“A lot of people think that chefs need a really home-cooked meal, fancy food or something that’s intricate in their off time, but the answer is ‘not really,’” Chef Dung Vo of Noko Hospitality in Nashville told the WSJ.
Vo said he frequently stops at Taco Bell late at night for a satisfying meal after finishing a shift.
Items including the Crunchwrap and Doritos Locos tacos have become major customer favorites, with more than 100 million sold last year.
Brett Pluskalowski, senior manager of Taco Bell’s Food Innovation team, told the outlet that the company’s collaboration with Doritos created new opportunities for experimentation.
Taco Bell favorites including the Crunchwrap and Doritos Locos tacos sold more than 100 million last year
Chef Bricia Lopez, founder of Guelaguetza in Los Angeles, said Taco Bell makes your mouth “happy” through its combination of crunch and crema
He stated: ‘You can turn anything into a taco shell now.’
The food manager highlighted their wide variety of uncommon ingredients such as fried chicken, waffles and fried cheese used for taco shells.
‘The combination of the crunch, the fat and the brightness of the acidity of the crema, it’s all there for a purpose: to make your mouth happy and to spark neurons in your brain,’ Chef Bricia Lopez said.
The Mexican American chef opened Guelaguetza restaurant in Los Angeles, California, and has been known for Oaxacan cuisine.
