New Zealand is not blessed with an array of quality arenas but the Cake Tin makes up for it
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Finally, here’s a worldwide guide designed to help rugby fans discover the best places to watch a match, whether it’s nearby or on the other side of the globe.

Below, you’ll find a personal top 20 list of rugby venues that I suggest visiting, provided you can get tickets or afford the increasingly expensive flights.

This selection includes a wide range of locations, from charming local clubs to impressive international stadiums, spread across various regions and architectural styles.

Some have been chosen for their striking appearance, or their history, some for their eye-catching surroundings or enticing local attractions, while for others it is all about the atmosphere to be experienced inside the walls.

On the whole, there has been an attempt to prioritise venues which are primarily used for rugby, but there are glaring exceptions to that rule and, for that, no apology is necessary.

This list leans heavily on traditional names rather than the sponsored ones which can change all too regularly and there is even a nickname to start the roll-call.

It is worth pointing out that there were several fine stadiums used in Japan for the 2019 World Cup which would merit inclusion here, but any of those seen first-hand were very much borrowed from football, as a one-off, so they missed the cut.

Anyway, here’s my top 20. Try to make it to as many of these as possible…

‘Cake Tin’ (Sky Stadium), Wellington, New Zealand

New Zealand is not blessed with an array of quality arenas but the Cake Tin makes up for it

New Zealand is not blessed with an array of quality arenas but the Cake Tin makes up for it

It is a smart, circular, waterside landmark which is easily accessible from the city centre

It is a smart, circular, waterside landmark which is easily accessible from the city centre

The Lions’ epic win over the All Blacks here in 2017 was a pulsating occasion

The Lions’ epic win over the All Blacks here in 2017 was a pulsating occasion

New Zealand is not blessed with a vast array of high-end sporting arenas.

Eden Park in Auckland has improved a lot since a flat-pack expansion for the 2011 World Cup, but it suffers from being in a busy neighbourhood, which leads to transport trouble.

In contrast, the Kiwi capital has this smart, circular, waterside landmark just to the north of the city centre; making it easily accessible as well as easy on the eye.

The Lions’ epic win over the All Blacks here in 2017 was a pulsating occasion in front of a sea of red shirts.

Central Coast Stadium, Gosford, Australia

This choice is as much about the journey as the destination.

Catch the train north from Sydney and put the phone aside for the final stages of the approach to Gosford, to enjoy stunning views of the coastline, blue-water bays and yachts weaving around.

The venue  is open at the ocean end, aside from a row of palm trees around the scoreboard

The venue  is open at the ocean end, aside from a row of palm trees around the scoreboard

The Lions lost to Australia A in Gosford back in 2001 on their tour Down Under

The Lions lost to Australia A in Gosford back in 2001 on their tour Down Under

This choice is as much about the journey as the destination

This choice is as much about the journey as the destination

The venue itself is open at the ocean end, aside from a row of palm trees around the scoreboard. It just feels tropical.

The Lions lost to Australia A in Gosford back in 2001 and England narrowly escaped an ambush there by the Barbarians nine years later.

Ellis Park, Johannesburg, South Africa

The iconic, highveld stronghold of the Springboks, where they won the 1995 World Cup, leading to Francois Pienaar receiving the Webb Ellis Cup from Nelson Mandela – who was wearing a replica of his No 6 shirt.

Go to Ellis Park in Johannesburg to experience raw, partisan passion

Go to Ellis Park in Johannesburg to experience raw, partisan passion

Ellis Park is the iconic stronghold of the Springboks, where they won the 1995 World Cup

Ellis Park is the iconic stronghold of the Springboks, where they won the 1995 World Cup

It is a city-centre cauldron of South African fervour and fury, on and off the field

It is a city-centre cauldron of South African fervour and fury, on and off the field

Whatever the commercial naming deal of the day, it will always be Ellis Park. It is a city-centre cauldron of South African fervour and fury, on and off the field, as summed up by a first-half onslaught endured there by England in 2012.

It is also where Siya Kolisi made his first appearance as the Boks’ first black captain. Go to experience raw, partisan passion.

Estadio Padre Ernesto Martearena, Salta, Argentina

Full disclosure, this was chosen as the representative from Argentina, with no competing options.

Lions tours always clash with England’s Tests against the Pumas in South America, so trips to games in Buenos Aires, Mendoza and elsewhere are still on this correspondent’s own bucket list.

Salta is a striking location – set in the foothills of the Andes, close to the border with Chile

Salta is a striking location – set in the foothills of the Andes, close to the border with Chile

England's trips to Argentina always clash with Lions tours, as is the case again this year

England’s trips to Argentina always clash with Lions tours, as is the case again this year

But Salta is a striking location for a game – set in the foothills of the Andes, close to the border with Chile. Take a pre-match ride up a cable car for epic mountain views, then savour the Latin noise and colour in the stands.

Forsyth Barr Stadium, Dunedin, New Zealand

This was one stadium which the 2011 World Cup organisers actually committed the money to build from scratch, as a replacement for the ageing Carisbrook – AKA the ‘House of Pain’.

The new venue is not the biggest, but it is a smart, weather-resistant home for the Otago Highlanders and occasionally the All Blacks, given the presence of a transparent dome roof.

If a sizeable contingent of the local student population fill up one end stand, as is often the case, they will create a decent racket in the south island’s No 1 arena.

Forsyth Barr Stadium is not the biggest, but it is a smart, weather-resistant home for the Otago Highlanders and occasionally the All Blacks, given the presence of a transparent dome roof

Forsyth Barr Stadium is not the biggest, but it is a smart, weather-resistant home for the Otago Highlanders and occasionally the All Blacks, given the presence of a transparent dome roof

This was one stadium which the 2011 World Cup organisers built from scratch

This was one stadium which the 2011 World Cup organisers built from scratch

If a sizeable contingent of the local student population fill up one end stand, as is often the case, they will create a decent racket in the south island’s No 1 arena

If a sizeable contingent of the local student population fill up one end stand, as is often the case, they will create a decent racket in the south island’s No 1 arena

HFC Bank Stadium, Suva, Fiji

There had to be a Pacific-island entry in the top 20 and the Fijian capital narrowly edged out its counterpart in Samoa.

This is one of two grounds regularly used to host Fijian Drua matches in Super Rugby Pacific and the infectiously enthusiastic home fans have brought a new dimension of energy and exuberance to that event.

They gather in hordes on the grassy banks and have a party, whether their team are winning or losing. For any outsider, a rugby visit to this distant spot is good for the soul.

This is one of two grounds regularly used to host Fijian Drua matches in Super Rugby Pacific

This is one of two grounds regularly used to host Fijian Drua matches in Super Rugby Pacific

They gather in hordes on the grassy banks for a party, whether their team are winning or losing

They gather in hordes on the grassy banks for a party, whether their team are winning or losing

For any outsider, a rugby visit to this distant spot is good for the soul

For any outsider, a rugby visit to this distant spot is good for the soul

Kingsholm, Gloucester, England

There aren’t too many Premiership grounds with a strong claim for a place in such exalted company, but this West Country hotbed provides a memorable match-day experience.

Gloucester folk are obsessed by rugby and that much is abundantly clear when the Cherry and Whites are in action in front of their adoring public.

The Shed is the famous terrace which is unsurpassed in English rugby for generating support and hostility in equal measure.

Heaven help any opposition kicker who misses in front of that lot, knowing that the donkey chants will follow.

It becomes abundantly clear on a trip to Kingsholm that Gloucester folk are obsessed by rugby

It becomes abundantly clear on a trip to Kingsholm that Gloucester folk are obsessed by rugby

There aren’t too many Premiership grounds with a strong claim for a place in such exalted company, but this West Country hotbed provides a memorable match-day experience

There aren’t too many Premiership grounds with a strong claim for a place in such exalted company, but this West Country hotbed provides a memorable match-day experience

Kings Park, Durban, South Africa

By the Indian Ocean, the home of the Sharks is another great place to see the world-champion Springboks in action.

It is certainly not a state-of-the-art venue and it is dwarfed by the modern Moses Mabhida Stadium nearby, with its statement arch, which was built for the 2010 football World Cup.

By the Indian Ocean, the home of the Sharks is another great place to see the Springboks

By the Indian Ocean, the home of the Sharks is another great place to see the Springboks 

Kings Park has soul and charm, and on match days you can smell braai cooking outside

Kings Park has soul and charm, and on match days you can smell braai cooking outside 

The steep stands on either side provide an intimidating backdrop when full to capacity

The steep stands on either side provide an intimidating backdrop when full to capacity

But Kings Park has its own raw soul and charm, with a large, grassy parking area which is filled with the aroma of braai cooking on match days.

Once inside, the steep stands on either side provide an intimidating backdrop when full to capacity.

La Defense Arena, Paris, France

This place divides opinion but just go for the sheer novelty factor. It is a remarkable venue for a rugby team; a stadium crossed with a cinema or theatre.

This place divides opinion but it has the novelty of a stadium crossed with a cinema or theatre

This place divides opinion but it has the novelty of a stadium crossed with a cinema or theatre

In a high-rise business district to the west of the French capital, this 21st century arena is home to Racing 92. Behind one end of the pitch, an enormous screen fills the space and projects information, footage and graphics before and after games. 

Despite being indoors, it is not often at thunder fever pitch, but there is no doubt that it provides a unique experience.

Melbourne Cricket Ground, Australia

Sorry cricket, this one is being pinched by rugby on a short-term loan deal, thanks to a tenuous link provided by the Wallabies v Lions Test there in late July.

Australia is a country awash with well-known sporting venues, but this one is the grandest of the lot, with its 100,000-capacity calling card.

A short, pleasant stroll from down-town Melbourne, outside the stands there are countless statues of cricketing greats, then inside just marvel at the sheer scale of it all – and fall in with the local tradition of a match-day meat pie.

A short, pleasant stroll from down-town Melbourne, outside the stands there are countless statues of cricketing greats, then inside just marvel at the sheer scale of it all

A short, pleasant stroll from down-town Melbourne, outside the stands there are countless statues of cricketing greats, then inside just marvel at the sheer scale of it all

Australia is awash with well-known sporting venues, but this one is the grandest of the lot

Australia is awash with well-known sporting venues, but this one is the grandest of the lot

Principality Stadium, Cardiff, Wales

Nothing matches it in international rugby. Nothing.

Sure, there have been justified complaints in recent times about matches being spoiled by fans constantly to-ing and fro-ing to bars and toilets, but when most people are in position and paying attention to the action, the decibel level is off the chart. 

Nothing matches the Principality Stadium in international rugby. Nothing

Nothing matches the Principality Stadium in international rugby. Nothing

Arrive early to watch the coaches crawl through the raucous throng on Westgate Street

Arrive early to watch the coaches crawl through the raucous throng on Westgate Street

When most people are in position and fixed on the action, the decibel level is off the chart

When most people are in position and fixed on the action, the decibel level is off the chart

Being inside when the roof is shut and Wales are taking the fight to England is a life experience not to be missed.

Arrive early to watch the coaches arrive and crawl through the raucous throng on Westgate Street. What a place.

Ravenhill, Belfast, Ireland

Back in the distant days when the European Cup was truly European and even the pool stage was laden with tension and jeopardy, this was one of the stand-out grounds to sample the tournament’s competitive energy.

So many fine teams turned up on a Friday night and could not cope with the reception on the field and in the stands, amid an out-pouring of provincial pride.

In some cases, atmosphere needs to be falsely engineered. This is not one of those places.

If Ulster are on a roll, watching them at home is a spine-tingling experience.

If Ulster are on a roll, watching them at Ravenhill is a spine-tingling experience

If Ulster are on a roll, watching them at Ravenhill is a spine-tingling experience

So many fine teams could not cope with the reception on the field and in the stands in Belfast

So many fine teams could not cope with the reception on the field and in the stands in Belfast

Reale Arena, San Sebastian, Spain

It used to be called Anoeta Stadium, before a redevelopment project between 2017 and 2020, but this focal point of Basque sporting fervour is all shiny and stylish these days.

Even before the upgrade, Biarritz would use it as a home from home and that allowed rugby visitors to sample the delights of a charming, seaside city which is a renowned gastronomic hotspot.

Bayonne recently took a Top 14 match over the border and if they repeat that venture in future seasons, it would be a prime excuse to head to this part of northern Spain.

Biarritz would use the Reale Arena as a home from home and that allowed rugby visitors to sample the delights of a charming, seaside city which is a renowned gastronomic hotspot

Biarritz would use the Reale Arena as a home from home and that allowed rugby visitors to sample the delights of a charming, seaside city which is a renowned gastronomic hotspot

Bayonne recently took a Top 14 match over the border and if they repeat that venture in future seasons, it would be a prime excuse to head to this part of northern Spain

Bayonne recently took a Top 14 match over the border and if they repeat that venture in future seasons, it would be a prime excuse to head to this part of northern Spain

Stade Mayol, Toulon, France

Let’s be clear – there are many better grounds than this in French rugby.

It has tiers of concrete steps and basic plastic seats. Access is cramped and chaotic. But ignore all that practical stuff, because game day here is a sensory overload.

The Toulon team’s entry from the main road, opposite the vibrant marina, is a show-stopper experience, then the mood is set by the famous ‘Pilou Pilou’ pre-match chant, led by a man on a mic covered in facial tattoos.

At the end, if the hosts are winning, prepare for a newspaper avalanche in the stands.

The mood is set by the famous ‘Pilou Pilou’ pre-match chant, led by a tattooed man on a mic

The mood is set by the famous ‘Pilou Pilou’ pre-match chant, led by a tattooed man on a mic

At the end, if the hosts are winning, prepare for a newspaper avalanche in the stands

At the end, if the hosts are winning, prepare for a newspaper avalanche in the stands

Stade Marcel-Deflandre, La Rochelle, France

One of the best rugby towns in France, if not the world, has developed a crazy obsession with the sport.

At the last count, ‘Stade Rochelais’ had sold out almost 100 successive Top 14 matches.

Being able to see a game there might require breaking and entering, but it would be worth the risk of punishment to witness the flag-waving frenzy, in a sea of yellow and black.

Watch them hero-worship the likes of Uini Atonio and Will Skelton, then enjoy sunset dinner and drinks in the beautiful, historic harbour area.

One of the best rugby towns in France, La Rochelle has a crazy obsession with the sport

One of the best rugby towns in France, La Rochelle has a crazy obsession with the sport

Stade Marcel Michelin, Clermont Auvergne, France

The original ‘Yellow Army’ are one of the most loyal and passionate supporter groups in club rugby.

When their team have been in showpiece finals abroad, they have filled Place de Jaude in their tens of thousands.

And when Clermont are at home, their ground – next to the Michelin factory – epitomes the spirit of Gallic rugby, with all the giant flags and thunderous chants of ‘ici, ici, c’est Montferrand’ on repeat.

The city can be hard to reach but it is well worth the effort, for a sporting weekend.

Clermont can be hard to reach but it is well worth the effort, for a sporting weekend

Clermont can be hard to reach but it is well worth the effort, for a sporting weekend

The original ‘Yellow Army’ are one of the most loyal and passionate supporter groups in rugby

The original ‘Yellow Army’ are one of the most loyal and passionate supporter groups in rugby

Stade Velodrome, Marseille, France

Strictly speaking, this belongs to football, but rugby makes good and regular use of it too, so its inclusion in this top 20 is justified.

Since a major revamp, it is a stunning venue, with its high, curving stands and glimpses of the nearby mountains through gaps at the corners.

There were some early teething problems when it was used at the last World Cup – with alarming crushes at entry points – but those were resolved for later fixtures.

A match at Stade Velodrome and an evening in the city’s Vieux Port is a jackpot combination.

Since a major revamp, it is a stunning venue, with its high, curving stands and glimpses of the nearby mountains through gaps at the corners

Since a major revamp, it is a stunning venue, with its high, curving stands and glimpses of the nearby mountains through gaps at the corners

Strictly speaking, this place belongs to football, but rugby makes good and regular use of it too

Strictly speaking, this place belongs to football, but rugby makes good and regular use of it too

A match at Stade Velodrome and an evening in the city’s Vieux Port is a jackpot combination

Suncorp Stadium, Brisbane, Australia

So many of the multi-purpose stadiums Down Under are configured for cricket, which means they are oval-shaped, creating big distances between sidelines and stands when rugby is on.

Not here. This is a tight rectangle and all the better for it.

The Wallabies have a decent record in Brisbane, where the noisy fans are crammed in

The Wallabies have a decent record in Brisbane, where the noisy fans are crammed in 

So many  stadiums Down Under are configured for cricket, which means they are oval-shaped, creating big distances between sidelines and stands when rugby is on. Not at the Suncorp

So many  stadiums Down Under are configured for cricket, which means they are oval-shaped, creating big distances between sidelines and stands when rugby is on. Not at the Suncorp

The Wallabies have a decent record in the state capital of Queensland and it is no surprise, as their fans are crammed in around them and usually noisy.

It is possible to walk to a match from the city centre and there are plenty of food and drink options along nearby Caxton Street.

Thomond Park, Limerick, Ireland

Renditions of The Fields of Athenry and Stand Up and Fight still stir the blood at Thomond Park

Renditions of The Fields of Athenry and Stand Up and Fight still stir the blood at Thomond Park

Nowadays, it has a capacity of almost 26,000 and the stands at the sides are impressive

Nowadays, it has a capacity of almost 26,000 and the stands at the sides are impressive

Back in the day, at every Heineken Cup match, the official attendance was 12,000 – which was the permitted threshold – but there must have been 50 per cent more people actually present

Back in the day, at every Heineken Cup match, the official attendance was 12,000 – which was the permitted threshold – but there must have been 50 per cent more people actually present

Nowadays, Thomond Park has a capacity of almost 26,000 and the stands at the sides are impressive, but there is a pang of nostalgia for what the ground was before.

Back in the day, at every Heineken Cup match, the official attendance was 12,000 – which was the permitted threshold – but there must have been 50 per cent more people actually present.

Kids would take it in turns to distract the police and climb over the walls to watch their heroes.

Renditions of The Fields of Athenry and Stand Up and Fight still stir the blood.

Welford Road, Leicester, England

When Welford Road is full, it gives England's best-supported club an imposing advantage

When Welford Road is full, it gives England’s best-supported club an imposing advantage

Those gathered on the Crumbie Terrace provide a vocal, unapologetically one-eyed view of proceedings and the noise spreads around all parts when the Tigers are on the charge

Those gathered on the Crumbie Terrace provide a vocal, unapologetically one-eyed view of proceedings and the noise spreads around all parts when the Tigers are on the charge

Leicester's ground gets on to my list on account of the sheer scale of the local following

Leicester’s ground gets on to my list on account of the sheer scale of the local following

Another Premiership entry, on account of the sheer scale of the local following. 

England’s best-supported club have had their ups and downs in recent years, but when Welford Road is full, it gives them an imposing advantage.

Those gathered on the Crumbie Terrace provide a vocal, unapologetically one-eyed view of proceedings and the noise spreads around all parts when the Tigers are on the charge.

Another familiar feature is the gathering roar as the home team clatter down the steps from the tunnel and on to the field. There’s even a hotel next door now.

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