From sea and farm to table: How Santa Cruz chefs, purveyors build community through food

Jack O’Neill is a significant figure in Santa Cruz, known for being a surfboard innovator and a key player in the development of modern surfing culture.

At the Jack O’Neill Restaurant & Lounge located in the Dream Inn, his legacy of creativity and ocean appreciation is reflected in the culinary approach. Executive Chef Gus Trejo focuses on using local and sustainable resources, concocting dishes that celebrate the coastline and community that Jack O’Neill was integral in shaping.

“Our goal is to engage with our entire community in what we do, especially in our cooking,” expressed Trejo. “We aim to support all those who dedicate themselves to sustainable agriculture and environmental preservation that aligns with the spirit of our surroundings.”

Trejo appreciates the dynamic nature of collaborating with independent suppliers. “Our seafood is harvested directly from the bay, delivered straight off a pickup truck,” he mentioned. “When the dish is served, I’m aware of every step it took to reach our guests.”

One of the contributors is Griffin Guess from Gracie Fish, who catches seafood on his own boat in the Pacific. He recounted a comprehensive four-hour conversation with Chef Trejo about fishing and restaurant operations, remarking, “I was genuinely impressed by his standards.”

On the agricultural front, Trejo has formed a strong partnership with Rob James of Corvus Farm in Pescadero, who supplies pasture-raised eggs. James recounted how Trejo’s perspective transformed his view of his own products: “Gus emphasized using a particular egg, not just any egg, referring to them as ‘the Corvus egg.’ He made me feel renowned just for my eggs.”

Trejo’s philosophy is rooted in his upbringing, split between California and summers on his grandparents’ ranch in Portugal, where all the food had to be sourced from the land. “I remember at that young age, I can still taste how food is supposed to taste… It has gotten to the point where I feel like we need to bring it back.”

Trejo believes sourcing locally makes not just a great meal, but a great community. “It just tastes better, feels better, and I’m really proud the team has come together and embraced that.” The team that Trejo built will continue his work at Jack O’Neill’s Restaurant and Lounge, as he takes the helm of Lucia Restaurant & Bar (at Carmel Valley’s Bernardus Lodge) in August.

Learn more here.

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