Jim Whittaker, a trailblazing mountaineer who etched his name in history as the first American to conquer Mount Everest in 1963, has passed away at the age of 97. His family announced that he died peacefully at his residence in Port Townsend, Washington.

Whittaker’s monumental ascent of Everest occurred a decade after the iconic achievement of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who were the first to reach the summit.

This daring feat transformed the once-reserved Whittaker into a celebrated figure, propelling him into the spotlight and making him a sought-after presence for public engagements and advocacy work.

His newfound fame also opened doors to elite social circles, including a lasting camaraderie with the Kennedy family.

Whittaker famously led Robert F. Kennedy on an expedition up a 14,000-foot Canadian mountain, which was later named Mount Kennedy in honor of the senator after his assassination.

“Bobby Kennedy was one of the most determined individuals you could meet,” Whittaker, who stood at 6-foot-5, remarked in 2015. “It’s not about your size, but rather the strength of your resolve that truly matters.”

He had also served as a state chairman for Kennedy’s campaign, showing he could navigate politics as deftly as mountain cliffs.

Climbing ran in the family.

Jim’s identical twin, Lou Whittaker, a legendary mountaineer and founder of Rainier Mountaineering Inc., passed away at 95 in March 2024.

Together, the brothers cemented their status among the world’s elite climbers.

But Jim considered one of his proudest moments leading 10 climbers with disabilities to the summit of Mount Rainier in 1981, a feat he called their personal Everest.

In 1980, he told an interviewer he hoped to “die in my sleep with the TV on,” reflecting his blend of daring and humor.

27 years later, he opposed mandatory electronic locators for climbers, insisting that “if you take all of the risk out of life, you lose a lot.”

Whittaker also left a huge mark on the outdoors world.

As REI’s first full-time employee and later CEO, he helped build the co-op into a global force for outdoor gear.