I’ve been covering the Middle East for about 25 years and the old cliché still rings true: “The more things change, the more they stay the same.”

That doesn’t mean our three-week stay has been uneventful, though. It’s been like a ride on a worn-out roller coaster—full of highs and lows.

Our initial field assignment was fittingly to meet with freed hostages and the families of those still held captive by Hamas. This issue resonates deeply with the majority of Israelis, as 48 individuals are in terrorist custody, with 20 still alive, marking the nearly two years of this Gaza conflict.

We encountered horror early on, just after grabbing breakfast at our hotel. Two gunmen launched an attack on a crowded commuter bus and stop in Jerusalem, resulting in six deaths and numerous injuries. The scenes were devastating, and the efforts to stop the assailants were courageous.

The following morning, as cameraman Ben and I were doing our routine news update on our hotel balcony, I noticed our dedicated producer Yael inside our studio room, visibly excited.

Israel had done the unexpected by targeting Hamas leaders in what was supposed to be the neutral territory of Doha, Qatar. The militants claimed they were discussing a peace plan. That U.S. proposal was effectively killed off, just like any victims the Israelis managed to hit (notably, no leaders).

And then to put the final “paid” to peace talks. The much-touted full-scale ground invasion of Gaza City by Israel was launched. To finish off some 3,000 remaining Hamas fighters and their infrastructure.  As Netanyahu put it “What starts in Gaza (the ugly Hamas massacre and hostage-taking of Oct. 7.) ends in Gaza.” 

And this is when the frustration sets in for grizzled combat reporters like me, and our top-notch war team of camera Ben, Producer Yael, and Security Rob. As they have throughout the war, Israel limiting access to the Gaza action.

So we depend on local journalists to show us the horror. The destroyed urban scene. And most importantly, the vast and ugly images of human suffering. Hundreds of thousands of civilians, many not Hamas supporters, having to deal with the living hell that the terrorists and the fighting have imposed on them.  

Remember that line, “I wouldn’t wish this on my worst enemy”? Well, maybe I’d go with it regarding Hamas, but not these poor Palestinian children who know nothing of the geopolitics of the situation. 

To their credit, IDF officials tell us they are moving slowly through the lunar landscape that is now Gaza. Careful not to endanger civilians and /or hostages. Somehow, with Hamas-backed local health officials indicating 65,000 have already been killed after 2 years of war, it seems somewhat after the fact. 

But that means, again, according to the officials we’ve spoken to, this whole Gaza City process could take as long as four months to complete. Too long for the morale-sapped reservists fighting the war. Too long for the inhabitants enduring it all. Too long for the desperate hostages.

Unless there’s a breakthrough. 

No wonder the locals here look to President Donald Trump and/or a range of countries, bodies, figures (yes, Pope Leo) to try to intercede beyond the local leaders, Israel’s past duels with foes like Hezbollah and Iran seemed like well-tuned 21st century war-making. The fighting in Gaza is more like early 20th century ugly World War I trench warfare. 

In between our live shots and reporting in Tel Aviv, we occasionally nip out to a few of the bars and restaurants that dot this seaside metropolis—despite all, running full tilt. And wonder what this country would be like, as well, of course, what it would be like for the wonderfully diverse Palestinian population without the yoke of war around their shoulders.

No answers this trip.