RUTHERFORD, Calif. — Fifty years ago, a bottle of Chardonnay crafted by a passionate Croatian immigrant took the wine world by storm, elevating Napa Valley to global fame. We visited Grgich Hills Estate to uncover how this legendary bottle forever changed the landscape.
A half-century since the iconic 1976 Judgment of Paris, the story of that groundbreaking Chardonnay is being celebrated once more at Grgich Hills Estate in St. Helena. Here, amidst the lush vineyards, the legacy of that historic event continues to thrive.
Miljenko “Mike” Grgich arrived in Napa Valley in 1958, equipped with dreams and a degree in viticulture and oenology. Hailing from a modest village in Croatia, where wine was a staple of life, his journey was driven by passion. “My father grew up stomping grapes and making wine,” shares his daughter Violet, now President of Grgich Hills Estate, who has been part of the winery since 1977. Mike’s journey saw him craft the celebrated 1969 Cabernet for Robert Mondavi before he created the world-renowned Chardonnay at Chateau Montelena.
The Judgment of Paris was an unassuming yet transformative event. Organized by wine merchant Steven Spurrier and Patricia Gallagher to mark the American Bicentennial, it pitted California wines against top-tier French Burgundies and Bordeaux, judged by an all-French panel. The results defied expectations. “The Chardonnay my father made at Chateau Montelena won first place,” Violet recounts, “and Stag’s Leap took the top spot for reds — both from Napa Valley.” This victory resonated far beyond California, encouraging a broader appreciation for wine, particularly on the U.S. West Coast.
In 1977, Mike established Grgich Hills Estate, maintaining family ownership through the years. By 2022, it achieved regenerative organic certification, guided by principles of land stewardship. Winemaker and Vice President Ivo Jeramaz, Mike’s nephew, continues this tradition. “Great wine begins with great grapes,” he emphasizes. “Chemicals harm us, the environment, and the wine’s quality.” Their philosophy is simple yet profound: nurture the soil, then let nature take its course.
Mike Grgich passed away in 2023 at nearly 101 years old, still selling wine until his final days. He enjoyed wine almost daily, embodying health and happiness. “He’s among the healthiest and happiest people we’ve known,” Violet fondly reflects. His spirit endures at the estate, encapsulated in his own words: “If wine brings nothing more than smiles and happiness, it’s worth the effort.”
At Grgich Hills, they’re still trying. And the world is still smiling.
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